Caviar & Bull: A Refined Journey Where Earth Meets Sea
- ellulclaudia
- May 2
- 5 min read
A Night of Refined Indulgence at One of Malta’s Finest Hidden Gems
There are nights when dining transcends the mere act of eating — when the culinary experience captures your senses, conversation flows effortlessly, and each dish becomes a memory. Recently, my partner and I were fortunate enough to experience just that at a stunning high-end restaurant nestled in the heart of Malta. Though not yet graced with a Michelin star, this gastronomic haven is easily deserving of such recognition — a sentiment we both agreed on as we looked out over the glistening Mediterranean Sea and the grandeur of the Westin Dragonara Hotel from our table.

The ambiance was refined yet warm, with an understated elegance that allowed the food and the views to take centre stage. From the moment we arrived, the staff treated us with the kind of attentive yet unintrusive service that elevates a fine dining experience into something unforgettable.
We began our evening with a pair of expertly crafted aperitifs. I opted for the Berry Velvet, a rich, winter-leaning cocktail with velvety berry notes, underpinned by warming spices that clung delicately to the palate — an unexpected but welcome indulgence in Malta’s temperate climate. My partner chose a whiskey-blended cocktail that was altogether more summery — light, breezy, with a citrus-kissed finish that hinted at tropical fruits and fresh herbs. It was the perfect juxtaposition to my darker, more brooding drink — a testament to the bartender’s skill in crafting moods through cocktails.

The Tasting Menus: Carnivore Meets the Sea
We each selected a different tasting menu — I, the Caviar and Bull, which beautifully bridged the world of seafood and fine meats, and my partner, the indulgent and richly layered Bull Tasting Menu — a true celebration of Black Angus beef in its most refined forms.
Bull Tasting Menu: A Journey into Umami Depths
My partner’s journey began with the Fillet Mignon Tartare, paired with a quail egg that burst luxuriously over shallots and a tangy pickled cucumber. The cured yolk emulsion brought a silky richness that balanced the tartness with finesse, while the dish’s precision plating foreshadowed the elegance to come.

Next came a luxurious Foie Gras course — a dish that exuded elegance from first glance. A delicately seared medallion of foie gras was served atop a silky apple purée, its natural sweetness cutting through the richness of the liver with masterful precision. Accompanying this was a cloud-like foie gras mousse, impossibly smooth and airy, bringing a lighter texture to balance the dish’s decadence. The interplay between the warm, caramelised edges of the foie gras and the cool, fruity undertone of the purée made each bite a nuanced experience, both bold and refined.

The Agnolotti Angus arrived as small, golden parcels filled with caramelised beef, their richness lifted by a sharp pecorino fondue. Each bite was deep, savoury, and resonant — a masterclass in layered simplicity. The beef jus drizzled around the plate added a luscious, glossy depth.
After a brief yet refreshing interlude provided by the Maltese Bajtra Sphere — a palate cleanser infused with the delicate sweetness of prickly pear — the main event arrived: Angus Beef Cheeks. Slow-cooked to the point of yielding, the cheeks were meltingly tender, sitting aside a creamy mashed potatoes. A charred onion bulb that added delightful contrast, while the jus intensified the richness without overwhelming.

Dessert brought the show-stopping Gianduia, a stunningly plated hazelnut crèmeux layered with milk chocolate ganache and a croustillant dacquoise. Glazed to mirror perfection, it was indulgent without being cloying — the ideal finish to a meat-focused journey.
To round off this indulgent chapter, my partner opted for the cheese platter — Being the little mouse that he is, he devoured every bite with a grin, savouring each creamy, tangy, and nutty note as though it were the last.
Caviar and Bull: Elegance From the Ocean to the Pasture
My own menu began with a triumph: Oyster and Caviar. A plump, briny Gillardeau oyster was paired with Kaluga caviar atop a crispy rosette fritter, accentuated by the bright tang of a rice wine vinaigrette. Salmon roe added bursts of salinity, enhancing the dish’s oceanic profile without overpowering.

The next dish, aptly named Caviar and Bull, was a clever convergence of land and sea. Thin slices of Black Angus were topped with Kaluga caviar and pickled onions, the umami depth playing beautifully with the meat’s natural sweetness and the shallots’ sharpness. It was refined, creative, and deeply satisfying.
Then came the Seared Scallops, caramelised to perfection and nestled atop a pea purée, with citrus-kissed orange segments and a butter lemon velouté that lingered delightfully on the tongue. The nori caviar punctuated the dish with just the right touch of sea-salt minerality.

One of the standouts of the evening was the Tortellini Prawns. Handmade pasta filled with Black Tiger prawns floated in a cacio e pepe sauce — its peppery, cheesy bite beautifully offset by a delicate red prawn oil. The freshness of herbs cut through the richness, creating balance in every bite.

The Cuba Libre Sphere — a playful nod to the classic cocktail — was our second palate cleanser, offering a crisp, rum-and-cola inspired refreshment in molecular form. This whimsical touch added a sense of fun to the meal’s pacing.
For the main, the Mediterranean Gurbell (Meagre) was a masterstroke. Poached in basil, the fish flaked delicately, bathing in a champagne velouté that was light and aromatic. The gnocchi were pillowy and the black olive tapenade added an assertive counterpoint, grounded further by the earthy spinach.

Though I was already enchanted by the seafood dishes, the Angus Beef Fillet was a powerful final savoury chapter — perfectly pink inside, served atop velvety mash and crowned with mustard gastrique and sweet onion petals. Every component was balanced, and each element amplified the others.
Dessert was a divine Dark Chocolate Fondant with a perfectly molten centre. The sable Breton base added buttery crunch, and the Fior di Latte ice cream lightened the decadence with a fresh, creamy note. It was indulgent but never heavy.

The Wine and the View
To accompany our tasting menus, we shared a bottle or two of Etna Rosso, a Sicilian red wine that danced beautifully between fruit-forward brightness and earthiness. Its complexity made it a versatile pairing — just as comfortable alongside seafood as it was with the deep richness of Angus beef. Each sip felt like a continuation of the Mediterranean landscape we admired from our window seat. Its lights dancing across the sea as waves lapped gently below. The atmosphere was romantic without being contrived; intimate but not stifling. The golden-hour hues faded into twilight, and we found ourselves wrapped in the kind of evening that feels suspended in time.
A High-End Experience Without the Pretension
Though this exceptional restaurant may not yet have a Michelin star, it surpasses many that do. The finesse of each dish, the elegance of the setting, the creativity of the menus, and the warmth of the service all combined to make it one of the most memorable meals we’ve ever had.
Whether you're a devout meat lover or a seafood aficionado, these tasting menus offer a culinary journey that delights at every turn — and with views like these, every bite is somehow elevated even further.
PRICE : $$$ | VALUE FOR MONEY: 9.5/10 | SERVICE: 9/10 | AMBIENCE: 9/10 | LOCATION : 9/10
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