Tartarun— A Michelin Family Affair, Refined by the Sea

Nestled along the picturesque Maltese coastline, where the cerulean waters whisper against the shore, lies Tartarun—a family-run culinary gem that exemplifies the island’s deep maritime heritage. The name "Tartarun" is derived from the traditional Maltese fishing nets, a fitting tribute to the island's enduring relationship with the sea. However, what truly sets Tartarun apart is its commitment to refining this age-old tradition through an innovative dining experience that is as sophisticated as it is unpretentious. Here, the freshest seafood meets the creativity of a seasonal menu, one that speaks not only to the refined palate but also to the joyous simplicity of family dining.

From the moment you step inside, the restaurant exudes an atmosphere that is both warm and polished. The soft murmur of animated conversation, the hum of families dining together, and the occasional laughter of children all blend harmoniously in a space that balances familial comfort with refined elegance.

At Tartarun, children are not simply accommodated; they are embraced as essential members of the dining experience. This inclusivity is evident in the thoughtful attention to detail, whether in the design of the menu, which offers ample options, or in the way the staff treats the youngest guests with the same respect and care as the adults. Our own children, with their varying tastes—from the adventurous to the more discerning—were met with tailored offerings, ensuring that each child found delight in the meal. One such thoughtful touch was the provision of gluten-free pasta for our middle child, ensuring that no one felt left out of the gastronomic experience.

For my partner, whose culinary inclinations are more grounded in the hearty realm of meats, the focus was on the robust main courses. However, for me, the sea’s bounty proved irresistible. I began with a series of exquisite starters that set the tone for what would prove to be an extraordinary meal.

The first of these, the Gillardeau Oysters, arrived with an accompaniment of zesty lime and pickled onions. The oyster were the epitome of refinement in their simplicity—plump and briny, their natural flavour elevated by the sharp citrus and the delicate pungency of the pickled onions. It seemed to transport me to the very shores from which these oysters had come, pure and invigorating, their freshness almost transcendent.

Next, I indulged in the Daily Fish Tartare, crowned with trout roe, chicory, buttermilk, and turnip oil. This dish was a striking showcase of balance. The tartare, impeccably fresh, offered a delicate yet complex flavour, its cool, silky texture playing beautifully with the tangy creaminess of the buttermilk. The trout roe added a playful sweetness, while the bitter edge of chicory provided a welcome contrast to the dish's richness. The turnip oil, with its subtle earthiness, grounded the entire composition, making each bite an intricate dance of flavour, texture, and temperature.

The Pink Prawn Carpaccio followed, a sublime study in minimalism. Thinly sliced prawns were artfully arranged, adorned with micro leaves, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, and a touch of lemon. The prawns, delicate and sweet, melted in the mouth, their flavour beautifully heightened by the citrus notes and the grassy warmth of the olive oil. Each bite was a meditative moment, an invitation to savour the profound simplicity.

A delightful interlude came in the form of the Croustade of Prawn, Kimchi, and White Kombu—a bite-sized marvel of textures and flavours. The prawn croustade offered a satisfying crunch, followed by the deep, fermented heat of kimchi. The white kombu, with its gentle umami, provided a lingering depth that balanced the dish’s boldness, transforming this small bite into a symphony of taste.

For the main course, I selected the Pink Snapper Fillet, accompanied by local shrimps, yuzu kosho, and mussel sauce. This dish exemplified the concept of coastal cuisine—simple yet complex, refined yet accessible. The pink snapper, grilled to perfection, was moist and tender, its flesh imbued with the smoky char of the grill. Paired with the shrimp—plump and bursting with sweetness—and enriched by the tangy heat of the yuzu kosho, this dish was a study in contrasts. The mussel sauce, rich, enveloped the fish in a comforting warmth, a perfect counterpoint to the bright acidity of the yuzu. The interplay of flavours was an orchestration of nature's purest gifts, each element enhancing the others in an exquisitely balanced presentation.

As we savoured our entrées, the children were equally delighted with their own culinary choices. However, when it came to their desserts, it was something quite extraordinary. Although all children are known to have a sweet tooth, they all discovered a new confection that they appeared to relish with particular enthusiasm. I was also informed that I should attempt making these treats at home, yet I suspect that I am more inclined to return to this establishment rather than attempt such intricate desserts in my own kitchen.

Our youngest, with a penchant for sweet indulgence, opted for the Strawberry Sundae, a playful yet sophisticated dessert composed of panna cotta, fresh strawberry jam, and coconut ice cream. The panna cotta, impossibly smooth, provided a rich base for the sweet burst of strawberries, while the coconut ice cream added a refreshing tropical note, enhancing the dessert’s lightness.

Meanwhile, our other child, more inclined towards simplicity, chose the Madagascar Vanilla Ice Cream on a bed of granola. The ice cream, decadent in its smoothness, was the perfect foil for the crunchy, nutty granola, offering a satisfying textural contrast. Uncomplicated yet sublime, this dish exemplified Tartarun’s ability to elevate even the most basic ingredients into something extraordinary.

The most adventurous of the children opted for the Chocolate Mousse, paired with chocolate ice cream and tuile. The dessert was as visually stunning as it was delicious—a true work of art on the plate. The mousse was velvety and rich, while the tuile added a delicate crunch, offering a delightful contrast in both texture and flavour. It was, without question, a fitting conclusion to a meal that had already delighted all the senses.

As we finished our desserts, the wine—Primitivo di Manduria—complemented the richness of the dishes beautifully. Bold and fruity, with a smooth finish, it added a harmonious note that lingered in perfect sync with the final tastes of the meal.

Tartarun is more than just a restaurant; it is a celebration of Malta’s rich maritime heritage, where the sea’s bounty meets innovation and refinement. It is a place where families, from the youngest to the oldest, can gather to share in the joy of a thoughtfully curated meal. The commitment to local, seasonal ingredients, the deft preparation that respects the integrity of each element, and the welcoming atmosphere all combine to create an experience that is as memorable as it is exceptional. Whether you are a connoisseur of fine dining or simply seeking a meal that speaks to both the soul and the palate, Tartarun promises an unforgettable journey through the flavours of the sea.